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The Longest Way Home

Think of this as the idiot’s guide to crossing half the planet by train: start with a duck dinner in Beijing, lose all faith in your Chinese skills, get roped into a smuggling ring you don’t understand, and nearly get deported in the middle of the night because you can’t read your own visa. Sprinkle in a few Mongolian herders with better mobile coverage than Paris, some vodka-fueled “picnics” that look more like frat-house scavenges, and a driver named Sergei who treats cliff edges like parking spots. If you’ve ever wondered how far bad planning, blind luck, and sheer stubbornness can carry you—this is that story.

Chapter One: Their Last Meal

Beijing’s ancient alleys, overwhelming crowds, and a final feast of Da Dong’s famous duck mark the start of our journey. Between culture shock and comfort food, this might be the last truly great meal for a while.

Chapter Two: Mongolian Train, Chinese Caboose

From stern Mongolian attendants to a chaotic Chinese dining car, the first leg of our train journey mixes comfort, confusion, and a smuggling shell game at the border — proof our planning leaves much to chance.

Chapter Three: Buddha’s Country

In Mongolia’s vast steppes, we find “Buddha’s Country”: breathtaking skies, nomads with cell phones, satellite dishes outside gers, and a revival of Buddhist culture. Modern tools blend with ancient traditions to give the countryside new strength.

Chapter Four: An Idiot Abroad

Visa dates two days off, no food or cups for vodka, and surrounded by smugglers far better organized than us — the border crossing between Mongolia and Russia makes us feel like true idiots abroad.

Chapter Five: Siberian Summer

Visa dates two days off, no food or cups for vodka, and surrounded by smugglers far better organized than us — the border crossing between Mongolia and Russia makes us feel like true idiots abroad.

Chapter Six: You’ve Been Iced

Visa dates two days off, no food or cups for vodka, and surrounded by smugglers far better organized than us — the border crossing between Mongolia and Russia makes us feel like true idiots abroad.

Chapter Seven: East Meets West at KGB Safe House

In a former KGB officers’ block off Lenina Prospekt, our “safe house” offers blast doors, cold showers, and live surveillance. Ekaterinburg—where Europe meets Asia, Romanovs fell, and Yeltsin rose—turns our tourist cover into a spy caper and early escape.

Chapter Eight: Flashed in Moscow

Visa dates two days off, no food or cups for vodka, and surrounded by smugglers far better organized than us — the border crossing between Mongolia and Russia makes us feel like true idiots abroad.

Chapter Nine: Cold War Shagging

Between a brass-and-mahogany museum car and a sleek bullet train, we side with slow travel: samovars, proper plates, and thick carpets—plus a babushka who decks a shirtless soldier. Speed impresses, but the old rails steal our hearts.

Chapter Ten: It Ends in The West

In St Petersburg’s White Nights, Europe feels like a flawless stage set—Hermitage halls, postcard canals, bohemian hotels—magnificent and a little contrived. As our rail odyssey ends in the West, we look ahead and place our bets on Asia.