You’ve seen the photos: impossibly steep mountains draped in emerald forests, ancient monasteries clinging to cliff faces, prayer flags dancing in a pristine, thin air. Bhutan, the “Last Shangri-La,” calls to the soul with a promise of untouched beauty and profound peace. I felt that call too, and on my first visit, I was eager to dive headfirst into this mystical kingdom. I booked my flights, packed my most comfortable hiking boots, and dreamed of serene dzongs and warm cups of butter tea. What I didn’t anticipate was the unique set of rules and cultural nuances that govern travel in…